🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.